SAGB turns teacher

The jury is out on this one, but the fact that they are full of vitamins and minerals, including zinc, which is good for testosterone levels and boosts dopamine, is in their favour. Casanova certainly believed in them and reportedly ate 50 raw oysters every day for breakfast.

When it comes to production, the UK grows around 29 million oysters per year, compared to the French, who farm a massive 1,200 million, yet we have similar hydrographical conditions and a much larger coastline.

Native oyster production is down to around 12 tonnes, whereas one hundred years ago, it was closer to 50,000 tonnes. Various oyster regeneration initiatives are hoping to revive the fortunes of this species, but they are difficult to grow and more susceptible to disease than rock oysters.

UK mussel production is around 14,000 tonnes, which is less than one third of that grown in France, where production is more than 60,000 tonnes.

The difference comes down to a supporting and enabling environment in France, whereas in the UK we face restrictions from and battles with agencies and government, every which way we turn.

Never mind the fact that shellfish aquaculture is environmentally friendly, increases local biodiversity through habitat and nursery creation, and delivers beneficial ecosystem services, including acting as a carbon and nitrogen sink, water cleansing and reef building etc.

“What is not to love?” asked Jarrad.

• A brief overview of the mechanics and benefits of mussel farming enabled the journalists to understand that it is regenerative aquaculture in its purist form, as well as providing a product that is delicious to eat and in great demand

• They were interested to find that the regulatory system surrounding mussels and oysters is complex, and that a focus on food safety means there is a rigorous statutory testing programme in place that encompasses both bacteria and algal toxins. Post-harvest depuration is used for oysters in particular, when water quality is not optimum, to ensure that the raw product is safe for consumers to eat. However, for bulk sales of mussels into Europe, it is preferable to depurate closer to market to help maintain shelf-life, but Brexit has closed that door for now, and it is hoped that new negotiations will enable a once-flourishing trade to restart.

Insights from the experts
Robin Hancock, Director of Restaurant Development at Wright Brothers, which he founded more than 20 years ago with his brother-in-law as a wholesale oyster import business, spoke about the company’s development into the wider shellfish and seafood trade, expansion into the restaurant and direct selling arena, the move into and out of oyster farming, and the introduction of a still-thriving home delivery service during Covid.  

A much-anticipated cookery lesson and hands-on oyster opening session sorted out the men from the boys, but everyone eventually gained the knack of pushing a knife into the shell at the correct place and twisting with just the right amount of pressure to release the meat – without injury!

The assistance and patience of Bobby Groves, an oyster sommelier who runs an oyster bar at the Chiltern Firehouse, was invaluable at this point, and he happily chatted about his book Oyster Isles, which documented a pilgrimage around the UK visiting as many oyster farms as he could manage.

The journalists were interested to learn how every location imparts a distinct merroir to the oysters, depending on local environmental conditions, and were keen to experience the different tastes of the oysters they opened.

Those reticent to eat a raw oyster were more than happy with the cooked variety served up by CJ Jackson.

A mussel lesson followed, which demonstrated how easy it is to “debeard” mussels, when necessary, by giving a quick twist to the hairy byssus threads attached to the side of the shell.  And after a quick wash, they were ready to drop into a pan for steaming with a small splash of wine and herbs to taste. I was personally intrigued by one version cooked with rosemary, which imparted a novel flavour.

Three minutes later, the plump mussels were ready for the table, and were happily wolfed down straight from the pan, mopped up with sourdough bread.

The event has already enabled the journalists to produce some interesting copy, and most importantly, has given them newfound knowledge and interest, and industry contacts able to fact check for them in future.